Vaisselle émaillée à pois blancs : son histoire

White polka-dot enamelware: its history

Red Enamelware with White Polka Dots: A European History That Became Familiar in the Balkans

But where do these red enameled mugs with white polka dots come from?
Who first disseminated them, and why are they associated with Eastern Europe and the Balkans?
An effect of communism? A figment of the imagination?
In reality, they were produced all over Europe.
But why do many (including myself) think they come from "the East"?

Before Saucepans: A Very Long History of Enamel

Enamel is, of course, much, much older than the kitchen utensils we are interested in.

Ancient civilizations had long mastered glass, glass paste, and glazes. But enamel in the strict sense appears when a vitreous material is melted directly onto a metal base so as to adhere to it durably.

The first evidence of true enameling appears in the Mycenaean world around the 15th-14th centuries BC. The first examples considered indisputable include jewelry discovered in Cyprus and dated to the 13th century BC.

After a period of four centuries during which traces became very rare, enameling spread again in antiquity along different commercial and cultural axes:
Eastward, through the Caucasus and the steppes to Crimea, and westward, notably thanks to Phoenician trade networks around the Mediterranean.
The Celts, for their part, developed the use of colored enamels on bronze, a tradition that the Romans then also adopted.

For more than a millennium after Roman antiquity, enamel remained primarily associated with goldsmithery, religious objects, and decorative arts.

When Enamel Entered Kitchens

From the 18th century, the first significant industrial productions of enameled objects appeared (in Battersea, England).

But it was mainly in the 19th century that the real shift occurred. Enamel then gradually left the realm of luxury and decoration to cover saucepans, cups, basins, and a whole range of everyday objects. Enameled cooking vessels became common items.


Red enameled kettle with white polka dots

Red kettle with white polka dots that I found
4 days ago at a flea market :)

Its vitreous surface has particularly interesting qualities for cooking: it protects metal, is easy to clean, is hygienic, and, most importantly, allows for a wide variety of colors and decorations on domestic objects.

The saucepan could now become an industrial, functional, and decorative object all at once.

A True European Industry

In France, Japy had a factory specifically dedicated to enameling kitchen utensils at Gros-Pré between 1889 and 1892. By the late 1930s, the company's three main sites together produced over ten tons of finished enameled pieces each day. (Patrimoine Bourgogne-Franche-Comté)

Aubecq, founded in northern France in 1917, also counted saucepan enameling among its initial specialties.

But at the same time, a particularly dense industrial infrastructure was developing in Central and Eastern Europe and the Balkans.

The Westen family offers a spectacular example. In 1894, Adolf Westen founded an enameling company in Celje, now the third-largest city in Slovenia. Starting with about ten workers, it quickly grew and, before World War I, became one of the major industrial companies in the region, exporting to many European countries, including Russia.

Over the decades, the Westen family produced enameled utensils in Celje, Slovenia; České Budějovice, Czech Republic; Olkusz, Poland; Mediaș, Romania; and Bassano del Grappa, Italy!

In Austria, Riess began enameling kitchen utensils in its Ybbsitz factory in 1922. The company still produces enamelware today.

On the eve of World War II, domestic enamel was indeed a European industry, but with a particularly strong industrial base throughout the area stretching from Austria to the Balkans and Eastern Europe.

The 1970s: Trajectories Begin to Diverge

It is probably from this period that the gap widened, leading us today to associate white polka-dotted enamelware more with Central, Eastern European, and Balkan countries.

This is because other materials and technologies such as aluminum, stainless steel, and non-stick coatings gradually gained an increasing share in Western kitchens.

In 1972, Le Monde already noted that a growing number of utensils had an interior Teflon coating, including saucepans whose exterior remained enameled.
In 1980, the same newspaper explicitly spoke of the craze for stainless steel, significant enough that Japy and Aubecq, two historical specialists in enameled steel, themselves offered stainless steel ranges, gradually abandoning enamelware (Le Monde.fr).
The Japy factory at Gros-Pré, which was still producing 300 tons of enameled household utensils in 1967, finally ceased operations in 1980.

In Western Europe, enamel did not disappear entirely: in France, enamelware was still very present in the 1970s, but during this time, in several Central European and Balkan countries, the enamel industry remained extremely active.

In Czechoslovakia, for example, SFINX still employed about 2,700 people in the 1970s and exported to 80 countries. A new factory intended for export was even built in the 1980s. (BELIS a.s.)

In Yugoslavia, Metalac rapidly developed its production of enamelware starting in 1960. For the record, its very first enameled item was actually a white bucket with blue polka dots. (Metalac)

The history of these white polka-dotted mugs and saucepans is probably less a matter of Eastern European tradition than a question of continuity:

From the 1970s-1980s, enamel and some of its traditional decorations gradually lost their place in part of Western Europe, while remaining more present in stores and homes in Central, Eastern European, and Balkan countries.

There is still a strong industrial and domestic continuity in this part of Europe today.

This observation exactly matches my own memory, that of department stores brimming with red and blue saucepans and other kitchen utensils with white polka dots.

But why precisely white polka dots on a red background?

Despite my research, I have found no definitive answer to this question. Nor have I found who might have first used this decoration on enameled utensils, or why this combination of red and white became so widespread.


Orange ladybug with white polka dots

Scandalous counterfeit


However, we can trace it back quite far.

In Germany, the Schlossmuseum Jever found a decoration referenced as No. 2873 in a Wächtersbacher Keramik factory catalog dating from 1927: white polka dots on a red background.

A few years later, around 1930-1932, white polka dots on a red background were found in Poland at the Ćmielów factory.

(These two examples, however, concern ceramics, not enameled metal utensils).

From Memory to Collective Memory

While in Europe white polka dots on kitchen utensils are just fond memories, in some countries they are still a reality.

To the point that these cups, saucepans, and other containers now belong to a collective unconscious.

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